Shortly after posting yesterday’s update I wiped out. All the nature and fresh air taking its toll. I awoke a bit later than I planned so a quick breakfast of toast with some cheese and ham I was on my way to Split for a lazy morning just moseying.
It was much quieter today perhaps all the Americans had left and the next plane load hadn’t arrived yet. Was still enough hustle and bustle to create an ambiance. I didn’t really know what I wanted to do today but I know I wanted it be more relaxing than yesterday’s excursion. So I just wandered and let my feet decide the itinerary. Without even trying the fish market and street stalls were first sights for today. The other stalls sold every from t-shirts to olive oil and most things in between in a Petticoat Land meets Billingate type area where one nostril smelt lavender from the soap stall and the other was fixated by Catch of The Day which seemed to be Sea Bream today.
After the cascade of smells to give the master perfumer at Old Spice a run for his money I make my way to get myself an iced coffee to indulge in some people watching whilst deciding on my plan of action for the afternoon. Twas a lovely day with the skies mirroring the Adriatic in rich blue. So I decided I would take the ferry to Supertar on the Island of Brač.
Not quite sure what it is about me and boat trips but I always get somewhat sentimental about leaving a place despite knowing I am due to return by early evening. Maybe I was a sailor in a past life. I scramble aboard the ferry and make my way to the top deck so I can hopefully get some nice photographs of Split as the ferry leaves port.
The ferry is busy and it must have about 50-60 cars on board too. Feels like it’s an invasion of Brač from the mainland. The sail is just under the hour so enough time to relax a bit before embarking on the island adventure. I can see Brač on the horizon edging ever closer with every thrust of the engine. It looks like a picture postcard,
My first thought on disembarking is that this is reminiscent of a town you would sail to on Lago Di Garda or Lago Maggiore in Italy but this was Croatia and this place has its own unique charm. By now i was quite hungry so had to pick which of the assortment of quayside cafes took my fancy. I finally found one that seemed up satisfy and kudos for the canopy to keep the sun off of my already tingling head. I ordered ground beef served on local bread with cheese and rocket salad. I expected a burger like concoction but what came was closer to a pizza with Bolognese sauce and mozzarella with some rocket. Looked amazing. Bonus point for the rocket as it’s first green to adorn my plate this holiday thus far.
Wow this blew me away. The bread was light yet doughy with a great crunch upon biting, the minced meat was great too and a pleasant spice heat but nothing too drastic and cheese was soft and a rich tang. Top drawer. After that memorable feast it was time to explore the town of Supertar. I decided to explore the town instead of going to the famous beach on the opposite side of the island. I think I chose the better of the two as the town was quite quiet. Can you guess my first stop?
Yeah you got it the church. Yet again I’m drawn the beautiful Crkva sv. Petra with adjoining bell tower. It always amazes the amount of stairs leading to a church. It’s almost like a penance for the Sunday hordes for their previous weeks sins. After my lunchtime feast the stairs presented me with a challenge I hadn’t really prepared for. So my penance for my exquisite yet calorific lunch was some heavy breathing and some groans from my stomach obviously not happy with the exercise so soon after lunch.
After my almost obligatory moment of contemplation I return to the promenade to savour this little slice of paradise and attempt to burn off some of that wonderful lunch and return to get my ferry back to Split at 4pm at least that was the idea.
I leave the town and decide to walk to the top of island which passes on the way a little beach area complete with loungers parasols and massage rooms. Massage rooms on a beach is not something I’d ever seen before but offering to ease my tired legs for 130kn (approximately 15GBP) is a somewhat tempting offer but I decided against and I make for the point I planned so I can have a view of Supertar.
Made it! Now soak it up. Relax before heading back. I check the time and it’s 1510 so time to head back for the ferry you can see arriving from Split in the photo. It’s not that far will take 40 minutes or maybe less as I won’t be stopping to massage the offers from the massage rooms or take as many photos. I arrive back on the promenade to hear the ferry blast it’s horn. Perhaps it’s heralding my arrival but it’s actually leaving!!! Wait it’s only 1547 so I make for terminal and discover that it’s 1545 the ferry leaves. I had read the times as the timing of the ferry leaving Split for the next scheduled departure at 1800! 1800 another 2 hours to kill. I decide to treat myself to an ice cream to make peace with myself I misread the timetable.
This was truly divine food and brain and body had agreed a truce on the timetable fiasco. Rich chocolate ice cream with a more generous helping of whipped cream, pieces of chocolate bar and smattering of chocolate sauce. Delicious. I decide to indulge myself yet in some people watching and watch the arrival and departure of small sail boats and yachts. Out of the corner of my eye I notice the is a yacht called “Fee” which brought a smile to my face was like Fiona waving reminding me she was here in spirit no doubt laughing at my mishap on the timetable.
I see the ferry in the distance so make my way to the terminal as I won’t be missing this one. Come hell or high water I will be on that ferry. So I take a last look at my surroundings on this beautiful little island and to capture its beauty in my minds eye.
Arrive back in Split just before 1900 so back to the apartment for quick shower and spruce before out for dinner to find something interesting for eating. I decide to head for Republic Square which I noticed had some eateries when I stumbled upon it the other day. I ended up going to Big Macho which offered a few interesting menu items. I decided on Rolani Pileći Ražnjići. Which was chicken wrapped in Dalmatian ham (not the dog) with tomato sauce served with Ridgeback potatoes. Which I guess was what came back as I have noticed before Croatian cuisine doesn’t always come as one would expect but needless to say it was still tasty. What came was skewers (on later research that is the Ražnjići part) with chicken breast an almost bacon like meat with a side of Napoli sauce with potato wedges of sorts.
Stay Tuned for Day 5